Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
